Tuesday, December 20, 2011

How to Get Rid of Yellow Jackets

!: How to Get Rid of Yellow Jackets

Yellow jacket (or yellow-jacket) is the usual name in North America for predatory wasps of the genus Vespula and Dolichovespula. Members of these species are better-known simply as "wasps" in other English-speaking countries. Most of them are black and yellow; some are black and white (such as the bald-faced hornet, Dolichovespula maculata), while others may have the abdomen background color red instead of black.

They can be identified by their characteristic markings, small size (similar to the size of a honey bee). They exist in colonies and have a characteristic rapid side-to-side flight pattern prior to landing. Yellow-jackets are often mistakenly called "bees." All their females are capable of stinging. Yellow jackets are important predators of pest insects, though they can be pests themselves as well.

II. Yellow Jackets as Pests

Eliminating yellow jackets can be time-consuming and excruciating. Yellow jacket (of the Vespula genus) are possibly the only wasp that can be considered pestiferous if you take its belligerent colony size and defensive nature into account.

This aggression on the part of the yellow jacket genus is most evident towards the end of the summer when the colony starts to crumble and workers find more sugars and sweets to nourish themselves and what's left of their young. Not only does the yellow jacket wasp's demeanor change toward the end of the warm season, but the size of a colony can also be imposingly astronomical if left unobstructed.

For the most part, wasps are predators and rarely scavengers, and this, by and large, applies to yellow jackets as well, but there are particular species within the Vespula genus that tend to salvage more aggressively than others.

Vespula Vulgaris, for example, is one of these scavenging species, and because of their scavenging behavior, they tend to come into contact with humans on a more regular basis than wasps that hunt live prey.

III. Basic Yellow Jacket Control

* Sometimes getting rid of yellow jackets or reducing yellow jacket populations is as easy as keeping your garbage cans properly sealed. Your garbage bins are a windfall not only for stray dogs, stray cats, and the occasional raccoon, but also for yellow jacket wasps, which will feed on the leftover proteins and sugars you tend to throw out with the trash.

Scraps of meat and fish are particularly pleasing to a yellow jacket's appetite, as well as old bottles of pop, bottles of syrup, and fruit.

* One way to get rid of yellow jackets is to keep pet food and other sources of refined proteins indoors. Yellow jackets, like other wasps, really do enjoy protein, and nothing is packed with more accessible proteins than pet food floating around in a water dish.

Keep your dog or cat's food bowl inside during the warmer months, or find a way to protect the pet food from foraging pests like yellow jackets and other scavenging wasps.

* Pop cans, humming bird feeders, and other sweets should not be left out, or should be sealed in such a way as to prevent yellow jackets from gaining access to the sugar. Studies done on yellow jackets show that populations with access to large amounts of refined sugars build incredibly large colonies much faster than colonies whose access to food is restricted to their natural diet of nectar and live prey.

* Make sure awnings and siding is properly sealed to get rid of yellow jackets. Preventing yellow jackets from gaining entrance to the voids in the siding and roofing of your home is highly recommended because hidden wasp nests are particularly difficult to get rid of and may require the services of a pest control professional.

If you can't stand having wasps living behind your walls, having a professional remove them for you is going to be like having a root canal on your wallet. If you're patient, cold weather will eventually kill the colony, and then you can seal the entrance without driving wasps into your home.

* Mechanical, non-toxic traps are a good way to get rid of yellow jackets - or at least reduce the local population to a less noticeable level. There are a couple of theories surrounding the right timing of yellow jacket and wasp traps, but most experts agree that traps should be put out during the earlier months of the warm season.

If traps are set before yellow jacket queens begin their search for proper nesting grounds, it's possible to spare your community one more yellow jacket colony by killing that one queen. Otherwise, traps set during the first few weeks of summer should keep yellow jacket populations at a manageable level during the peak season.

IV. Natural and Organic Yellow Jacket Control

The do-it-yourself wasp trap is perhaps one of the most effective traps your money doesn't need to buy. All you'll need is an empty 2-liter bottle, scissors, and some sugar water or fruit juice.

* Cut the cone off about 1/3 of the way down from the top of the bottle, flip it over, and staple it into place so that it looks like a minnow trap. Then, fill the bottle with fruit juice concentrate or sugar water with a little soap, and hang it from an awning or in your garden if you prefer.

* Pouring boiling water or just soapy water into the entrance of a yellow jacket nest is one way of killing yellow jackets and rendering their nest uninhabitable. Of course, this particular tactic should be done during the late evening, and measures should be taken to cover the skin in case the colony is feeling particularly bloodthirsty that evening.

*If you're going to use soap water, why not do it with some organic dish soap like the kind Seventh Generation makes? Sure, you'll still be the Tamerlane of the wasp world, but at least you'll be remembered as the environmentally-friendly murderer of wasps.


How to Get Rid of Yellow Jackets

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Friday, December 9, 2011

Bird Pets

!: Bird Pets

Do you like cats, dogs or rather birds? Birds can be a good alternative if you don't have enough space to keep another pet.

For some families, buying pets represents a big step. The reason of buying them may vary from family to family. While one wants a pet because they love animals very much, others may buy it for their kids, or others just want a companion.

Keeping in mind the reason why we want a pet, we have to analyze our choice from all points of view. My article will give advice to those who are decided to buy a bird for their home.

Knowing that we love birds isn't enough to go and buy one. We have to establish some principle ideas before entering a pet shop.

First of all, you have to decide what size of bird you want. You may have to remember that the bigger the bird the bigger the commitment involved with keeping it.

After you decide on the size, you may have to focus on the type and behavior of the birds. Some birds like to come out of their cage and socialize, but there are also those types which like to be seen but not touched.

You have to take in consideration the nutrition and maintenance chapter as well. Some species of birds require special diets, others need only their basic food.

Another important aspect in choosing a bird is the finance and budget. You have to have an idea how much you are willing to pay for this little fellow? As you probably know, the prices change according to the specie.

And finally, we arrived to the last aspect you have to think of and that is the time commitment. There are birds which need a lot of attention, but there are those, which are happy if you speak with them once in a while, maybe singing something so that they can feel that you like their twitter. So basically, you have to think how much time you have for the new member in your family.

Hope you will make the right decision and you will offer a home to your birdie.


Bird Pets

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Thursday, November 10, 2011

Using Glass Bird Feeders

!: Using Glass Bird Feeders

If you have decided that you want to put a feeder for the birds into your garden you may feel that you want something different than the standard types. Anyone can have a tube feeder or the more common platform bird feeders. Perhaps you are looking instead for a glass bird feeder. These are a more elegant, and often more expensive, type of feeder. Still, it may be your preference to have something a little different, a little more stylish that makes a statement instead of just a bird feeder sitting in your garden. They are also good to have because they tend to last longer than other feeders, are less likely to disintegrate with the elements and will not rot.

The only thing is if you choose one of these their care is a little more complicated than that of the other kinds of feeders. Glass bird feeders need to be cleaned more often since the bird mess will cloud it quickly. Therefore they must be taken down every few days and washed. The best way to do this is to only put in enough food to last a few days. Then when it is emptied clean it. Some people suggest having a second feeder so that you can always have one hanging up. Cleaning one of these feeders should be done with good strong bleach. If that is what you use you need to be certain you rinse it extremely well so that there is nothing in the feeder that could make the birds ill. The smell may also be strong enough to cause the birds to steer clear. It is therefore recommended that you let the feeder air for a couple of days before putting it back into use. This may seem extreme but if you want to use bird feeders made of glass these are the steps you need to take.

One other benefit of glass bird feeders is that they seem to attract more birds than many of the other kinds. Perhaps it is being able to see the other birds so clearly when they are feeding or maybe because these are often colorful. But, whatever it is if you hang one of these in your garden you will get to enjoy bird watching out your window.


Using Glass Bird Feeders

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Monday, October 31, 2011

Carolina Chickadee - Small North American Birds

!: Carolina Chickadee - Small North American Birds

This is another bird I get to enjoy in my yard all year. They are very active, aerobatic, and vocal. Their normal call is a chick-a-dee-dee-dee which is fast and high pitched.

I often see them clinging to branches or leaves upside down looking for katydids, caterpillars, spiders, and ants. They also eat berries and seeds, their favorite at my bird feeders is black oil sunflower seed. They also cache seeds coming back within an hour to a few days to retrieve them.

The Carolina Chickadee is a small bird, 4 3/4 to 5 inches long and weighing about 1/3 of an ounce. They have a black cap and throat, white cheeks and belly, and a gray back. The flanks may be tinged gray/brown, the bill is short and black, legs gray, and eyes dark.

They live in multi layered forest, shrubs along the edge of fields, marshes and swamps. You will also find them in urban areas at parks, wooded areas, gardens, and bird feeders.

After mating they will build a nest in a cavity, an old woodpecker nest or a hole they excavate in soft wood. They will also use nesting tubes or bird houses. They don't mind humans and often use chickadee houses in my back yard. It is recommended the nest boxes face north toward an open area. They need to be in the shade especially in the afternoon. They like the bird houses better if they are 8 to 14 feet off the ground.

They make a cup nest from grass, feathers, fur (especially rabbit), moss, and insect cocoons. Only the female incubates the eggs and the male brings her food. Pairs may remain mated over two or more nesting seasons. Both parents care for the young which may number from 5 to 9.

In fall and winter they often form feeding flocks with other birds, including Downy Woodpeckers, kinglets, nuthatch, and Tufted Titmouse. They usually come through my yard early morning and again mid afternoon. Working in flocks makes it easier to find food and provides protection from predators, especially hawks.

If the flock is only made up of chickadees there is a strict hierarchy as to who eats when and who keeps watch. Next time you have a flock at your feeder see if you can determine who's dominate in the flock.

I get to enjoy the Carolina Chickadee all year and they often sit in a nearby tree or shrub and scold me when I am filling the feeders. I guess I'm too slow.

Remember your back yard birds need water as much as they need food so provide them with at least one garden bird bath.


Carolina Chickadee - Small North American Birds

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Saturday, October 29, 2011

All Weather Feeder 4 Qt. - Clear

!: Brand new All Weather Feeder 4 Qt. - Clear where to buy

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All Weather Feeder 4 Qt. - Clear

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Thursday, October 20, 2011

Basic Backyard Bird Feeder Guide - Six Feeders You Need to Have

!: Basic Backyard Bird Feeder Guide - Six Feeders You Need to Have

1. Backyard birds have different feeding requirements. Different styles of feeders will attract different and a larger variety of birds to your backyard. These are the basic bird feeders for an all around good backyard bird feeding program:

Seed Tube Bird Feeder: Open port seed tube bird feeders are considered exclusive bird feeders meaning, they exclude many larger birds. These feeders primarily attract a variety of smaller birds. However, when a seed saver tray is added, it will allow larger birds a place to perch and feed.

Exclusive bird feeder. Excludes larger birds. Primarily feeds smaller birds such as chickadees, finch, and nuthatches. Made from a variety of materials. (PVC, Polycarbonate, steel, acrylic) Most PVC and Polycarbonate tubes carry a lifetime guarantee. Preferred feed to use is black oil sunflower seed, sunflower hearts, safflower seed, or other nut based mixes. Easily hung, but can be post mounted. Seed saver trays can be attached to the bottoms. A good starter feeder for the backyard
Nyjer Thistle: A very specialized feeder for Nyjer thistle or finch mixes which primarily attracts birds of the finch family such as Goldfinch, House Finch, Purple Finch and Pine Siskin. Indigo Buntings will feed on these feeders if those birds are in your area.

A tube feeder that is designed for feeding Nyjer thistle, a small imported seed. Attracts goldfinch, house finch, pine siskin, purple finch. Indigo buntings and other finch like birds. Made from a variety of materials.(PVC, Polycarbonate, steel, acrylic, and wood. PVC and Polycarbonate tubes usually carry a lifetime guarantee.) Use Nyjer thistle or a quality finch mix.(Best Finch Mix: 50% Nyjer seed and 50% fine sunflower chips.) Hang thistle feeders near small bushes or trees with lower branches.
Hopper Bird Feeders: This is a good all around feeder for attracting a variety of both large and small backyard feeder birds. It is considered a non-exclusive bird feeder since it does not exclude any birds. If the feeding area is large enough occasionally ground feeding birds will feed on this type of feeder, especially if the ground is covered with snow or ice.

Non-exclusive feeder which attracts both large and small birds. Storage capacity for holding quantities of feed. Available in a variety of durable materials. (Cedar, metal, recycled plastic, acrylic) Recommended feeds: black oil sunflower seed, safflower seed or any nut based mix combination. Can be hung or post mounted. Good basic backyard bird feeder.
Platform Bird Feeders: Elevated platform bird feeders are another of the non-exclusive bird feeders. It does not exclude any birds. Large and small birds alike can access it very easily along with some birds that typically feed on the ground.

A non-exclusive bird feeder that is very versatile. Can be hung or mounted on a pole or post. Some have a roof to protect the seed from inclement weather. Screen or perforated steel or nylon bottoms prevent water from accumulating in the feeder and helps to dry out seed if it becomes wet. Available in a variety of durable materials. (Cedar, metal, recycled plastic and acrylic) Recommended feeds: Black oil sunflower seed, safflower seed, sunflower hearts, or any nut based mix combination. Also a good feeder to use with general wild bird mixes. Excellent bird feeder for peanuts in the shell, meal worms, and fruits.
Ground Feeders: Ground bird feeders are the perfect feeder for ground foraging birds such as native sparrows, juncos and doves. Also attractive to the more opportunistic birds such as Cardinals and Jays. These feeders keep the bird seed off the ground reducing spoilage. Besides being more sanitary for the birds it is also keeps debris off the ground and is easier to dispose of the shells.

Ground feeders are just that, feeders which sit on or near to the ground for ground foraging birds such as mourning doves, native sparrows, Juncos, and towhees. Screen or perforated bottoms prevent water from standing in the feeder and allows the seed to air dry after rain & snow. Available with or without roofs. Use safflower seed and white Proso millet in this feeder which will attract a variety of the birds you prefer while deterring squirrels and the Common Grackles. (A good feeder for general wild bird mixes if squirrels are not a problem.) A variety of other birds will also feed at ground level such as northern cardinals and house finch. Keeps seed off the ground to prevent spoiling. Can be located under an existing feeder to catch seeds dropped by birds.
Suet Bird Feeders: Suet bird feeders using either commercial suets, or suet from your local meat market, provide a great source of year round protein. Placed on or near a tree this feeder will attract Nut Hatches, Brown Creepers, Chickadees, and a variety of woodpeckers. Wrens will occasionally feed on the suet as well. Suet is in high demand for these birds during the spring and summer months.

Suet is for the birds of the tree trunk zone. Commercial suets of 100% rendered beef fat are preferred. There is a large variety of commercial suets which contain various products from seeds and nuts to fruits mixed into 100% tallow.Pure suets, mixtures which do not contain nuts, seed and other products are least attractive to squirrels and European Starlings. Feed suet year round. Although it provides a great source of energy during the winter months, birds will actually consume more animal protein between March and August during the stresses of nesting and raising their young. Oftentimes woodpeckers will bring their young to the suet feeder once they have fledged the nest. Up-side down suet feeders will help to reduce Starlings from over-powering the feeder. Suet feeders surrounded by cages will repel Starlings as well as squirrels. If using a simple hanging wire suet basket, simply leave the hard plastic shell on the suet cake so the suet is only exposed one side. Then hang the basket at a steep angle or directly upside down. If Starlings land on the top they cannot peck through the plastic shell.
2. General wild bird mixes are best placed on or near the ground for ground feeding birds. Reserve elevated feeders for the nuts or nut based mixes. Avoid general bird mixes containing Milo, red millet or wheat. These are filler seeds which bulk up the weight thus lowering the price. While game birds and house sparrows consume these products they are not desired by song birds. Read the label for key ingredients.

3. Thistle seed has an extremely short shelf life of 3 to 5 months. This is the result of heat sterilization of the imported seed by the USDA. This method is used to avoid introducing non-native plants into North America. A newly purchased bag of thistle seed does not guarantee freshness since many merchants may stock large quantities for long periods of time. Songbirds will reject feeders containing old thistle seed is the primary cause in failing to attract birds to a thistle feeder. Inquire about the freshness of the seed you purchase, or purchase from reputable suppliers.

4. To deter squirrels and grackles, use safflower seed by itself in any of the bird feeders with the exception of thistle tube feeders. Safflower seed is attractive to cardinals, house finch, chickadees, doves and other birds, yet grackles rarely feed on it if at all. A feeder filled with safflower seed may be hung in a tree next to a squirrels nest and they will totally ignore it. Make it a part of you feeding program. It may take up to a week for your birds to become accustomed to safflower seed if it has never been offered to them before.

5. Although winter is the traditional bird feeding period, many people have established year round bird feeding programs. Natural foods become scarce after winter until a new crop of seeds and berries ripen in late summer. Wildlife biologists have found that birds nest earlier, quicker, and have more successful nestings when supplemental foods are offered. This is due to less time spent foraging and competing for low food reserves after winter. For example: Woodpeckers during the nesting season eat more suet between March and July than all winter long. You can attract a large variety of birds through-out the year by establishing a year round bird feeding program.

6. Providing a fresh source of water for birds is an important feature during all seasons. Puddles of rain water contain pollutants and toxins that are harmful to birds. In winter, open water is a rare commodity. Searching for water in frigid temperatures can waste precious energy needed to get birds through cold winter nights. And clean feathers provide valuable insulation to help keep them warm. Motion created in water, either by a waterfall or a dripper, attracts high flying birds, and is heard at a great distance.

These are the six basic bird feeders for a well planned backyard bird feeding program. For more information on additional kinds of bird seed to use with these bird feeders, and what birds you can expect to attract, please refer to the Bird Seed Preference Guide.


Basic Backyard Bird Feeder Guide - Six Feeders You Need to Have

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